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August 2013

The largest subterranean lake in Europe

GlueckaufSome people go to the pool when it's hot; my friends and I go to a cave. What the Seegrotte Hinterbrühl, just 17 kilometers from the center of Vienna, lacks in beauty and wildlife, it makes up for in pure cold. Inside, it's 9 degrees Celsius all year round.

Not that the Seegrotte is completely ugly, though some of its history is. Its existence began in the late 1800s when miners dug it out in order to extract grey and red gypsum for fertilizer. So it's not really a cave at all, but a mine. Mining is a dangerous business; so much so that the traditional miners' greeting in Austria is "Glück auf!" a wish for luck. Mining can also be a sad business. The guide informed us that the horses used by the miners lived their whole lives underground, ultimately leading to blindness.

BoatIn 1912, the miners accidentally blasted through a wall that was holding back water. The result was that 20,000,000 liters flooded in, putting an end to the mining and creating the largest underground lake in Europe -- 6,200 meters in area and up to 12 meters deep. Twenty years later, the first tourists entered the cave. It is erily lovely -- the still, lifeless waters glow blue under artificial lights.

Disney decided to film parts of the 1993 movie The Three Musketeers there, and they left behind a spooky gilded boat and the set for D'Artagnan's prison. The boats that took us along the lake were more plain and practical than the movie version, but that's a good thing -- some tourists drowned in 2004 when an older style of boat overturned.

But that unfortunate accident is not even the most haunting thing about the Seegrotte. During the Second World War, the Nazis used the cave as an airplane factory. Concentration-camp prisioners were forced to work there, assembling parts for the first jet plane, which never went into use. At the end of the war, the German armed forces destroyed the factory, but quite a few airplane parts remain and are on display. Working in that cold, dark place must have been miserable.

Not having done my homework in advance, I went to the Seegrotte expecting bats or eyeless fish. What I found instead were ghosts.

(Photo credits to Rachael Lloyd (top) and Florian Pötscher (bottom).)